Adios Nicaragua At 5 am it’s still dark as Ivan drives us to the airport. Inside the van no one is talking and outside groups of people out for a bit of exercise walk briskly along the median of the almost-emtpy divided highway and sometimes spill out into the fast lane. In the departure lounge I [...]
We headed back to Managua today and on the way we stopped at the Filtron Filter Factory which is owned and operated by a Belgian man named Frank Schuringa who came to Nicaragua twenty-five years ago, married a Nicaraguan woman, had a couple of kids, and established a coffee business, a compost-making operation and the [...]
Today we took in a townful of potters at San Juan de Oriente, a place where every street is lined with pottery shops and every nook and cranny contains studios, both large and small. The style of pottery here is the most well-known and, in some ways, the most sophisticated in the country: pots are [...]
Started Day 11 by driving 4 hours south to the market town of Masaya, which is a short distance south of Managua, where we started our trip, which meant that even though, for the past 10 days, we have felt like we were in remote countryside, we were never more than a few hours from [...]
Spent the day at Loma Panda, a remote pottery in the mountains, near the border with Honduras. This pottery is run by five sisters (and a niece) whose family has lived there for 500 years and despite their remote location, the pottery is well-established and the work done there is some of the most innovative [...]
Spent most of days 8 and 9 at Santa Rosa, one of the few remaining collectives in Nicaragua. The land belonging to the collective was originally a privately-owned hacienda. When the owners fled during the revolution, the people who had been working for them moved onto the land and set up the collective and then [...]
This morning we “borrowed” the kitchen of the comidor where we have been eating and four of our bravest brigadistas cooked breakfast for us using a traditional Nicaraguan wood stove: a long, narrow firebox that is fed with long branches at the end of which are a couple of holes to put pots onto the [...]
First stop was Condega’s, Pre-columbian Museum which has a good collection of pottery including classically shaped and elaborately painted bowls. There was much speculation as to where the pre-columbians got their colours, as we’re pretty sure it wasn’t from a pottery supply house. After that we drove up the hill to look at one of Somoza’s [...]
Spent the day at Ducuale Grande (an hour outside Esteli), participating in the Potters for Peace equivalent of a ceramic painting party where you pay to paint designs on prefabricated ceramic pieces and then take them home. In this case, our fearless leader had arranged to buy an assortment of handmade pieces from the potters [...]
Started day 3 at Los Hervides de San Jacinto, bubbling lava pits near the town of San Jacinto, where a small band of children acted as our “guides” while we wandered between steam jets and small pools of lava. After that we had a 20-minute drive to La Sabaneta, where Maritza, one of our brigadistas, [...]
Day 14: Leaving Nicaragua